The drive began as a winding path through the thickest parts of the state’s coastal forest. While the drive afforded an attractive view, it was somewhat claustrophobic as the shade and trees closed us in from open sky or water. We stopped by the Umpqua Lighthouse to get our first view of the Pacific Ocean. I had forgotten the awkwardness of walking on sand since I haven’t seen the ocean in almost four years. Leaving shoes and cell phone behind I stepped toward the shore as the water ran across my feet and ankles. I was surprised at how freezing it was. I had been to the Atlantic in Cape Cod, which is fairly cold but noting as intensely frigid as the Northern Pacific. After lunch overlooking the sea, we took back to the open road and continued south.
Now there are certain laws in nature such as gravity, thermodynamics and whatnot. There are laws for boys as well. First, if there is a girl within a fifty foot radius, we will take to showing off like a Labrador to water. Of the many laws I could list, the one pertinent to this story is that if there is something in the area that is even remotely climbable, we will make an attempt. As we were passing though Port Orford we were suddenly given a glimpse of stunning ocean view. Near the beach below were dozens enormous rocks jutting up out of the sea while the tide slammed hard against them. Near the shore was one steep monster that probably stretched forty or fifty feet above the ocean that looked somewhat accessible by foot. We climbed to the top and stood near the edge getting an impressive view of the coast. Apparently, nine settlers fought valiantly from this spot back in the day as we later found out the rock was actually named Battle Rock.
We continued on our drive, glancing out the windows at the beautiful coastal regions passing by. Then we turned a corner and everything opened up. Before us stood Mount Humbug and just to our right was one of the most breathtaking sights on this trip so far. It was becoming later in the day and as such the tide was intensely increasing. The rocks in the coves had doubled in size and the ocean tide was launching a full on assault against their bases. In a small cove lay a pile of dead trees, brittle and white having been bleached by the sun. From a distance it looked like the remains of an ancient prehistoric sea monster having found it’s final resting place. The sun was only moments from touchdown so we decided to wait it out. I was surprised by how fast it sinks once it hits the water. Like a ship whose hull has been breeched, she was swallowed by the sea in a matter of moments. The glow over the western horizon was a brilliant pink and blue and white.
I can only speak for myself at this point but my senses were overwhelmed and heavy. My spirit was in awe of everything that had enveloped in the past hour. I feel like my heart was vulnerable and something resembling worship was raging inside. As we continued our ride I decided to kick on Rich Mullins', “World As Best As I Can Remember It Vol. I”. It played out almost until we arrived at our destination at the Jedediah Smith Redwood Forest.
Before I fell asleep that night I made sure to tell Him thank-you. Not only for getting us here safely, but for also allowing me to take in all this beauty in such little time. So much has been so heavy as of late. Ultimately, a separation of some wheat and chaff is in order. And life finds a way.
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